Took the new bicycle on a ride; got bugged

"Akio Ohtori - RIP Oppo" (akioohtori)
09/12/2020 at 17:15 • Filed to: Hooptie Bikes

I took my newly rebuilt craigslist bike out for its first ride today and am happy to say...

It did great!

!!! UNKNOWN CONTENT TYPE !!!

Performance was... different than the World. My first half speed was slower than expected, hovering around 16MPH, whereas on the world I’m usually in the mid-17s, which sounds fast until I mention it is a mild downhill. Weirdly my speed on the return trip was in the mid-17s on the new bike, whereas I usually see mid-13s on the World....

Either way, average for the whole trip was 14.9 MPH, which is a full 1.3 MPH faster than the last, similar, ride on the World.

This was also my first trip using a cadence sensor. On the out I was between 75 and 80 RPM. At my midpoint stop I googled it and... apparently around 90 is a good goal? On the way back I kept it to around 85, but any faster felt odd.

The tube mounted shifters took a second to get used to again. These are in the same place as the Varsity (the World’s are on the stem) , which I haven’t been riding much, but the larger frame size means they’re quite a bit more of a reach! Still, they worked like a dream, even though I suspect they’ll need re-adjusted soon due to cable stretch.

Overall, successful trip!

Until I got back and realized I am COVERED IN BUGS.

Drove through a LOT of gnat clouds and apparently this is the result.

Gross.

Shower time!

DISCUSSION (11)

VincentMalamute-Kim > Akio Ohtori - RIP Oppo
09/12/2020 at 17:30

90 is a good goal to start with. You’ll get used to it. Your optimal cadence will vary depending on your fitness, body type, muscle type, goal for the ride.

I used to have a cadence sensor but eventually ditched it when I learned what my optimal cadence feels like. It’s good to learn with though.

I’m skinny and can’t produce much torque. So my power has to come from a high cadence and I try to keep it around 90. My cycling buddy is a mesomorph with huge legs. He’s usually in the 80-85 cadence range from watching him. Classic Honda inline 4 vs American V8 power curves. We’re usually well matched for rides though.

I have the same Chester pedals for my mtn bike . I switch them out with SPD clipless depending on whether the ride is relatively smooth vs technical.

Your bike looks too big for you.

Akio Ohtori - RIP Oppo > VincentMalamute-Kim
09/12/2020 at 17:40

Good to know, thanks!

The frame is slightly too large yeah, but the others were slightly too small. If I ever go completely nanners and actually buy a bike at a store I’d want something between the two, but happy with the way this one fits overall.

VincentMalamute-Kim > Akio Ohtori - RIP Oppo
09/12/2020 at 17:49

The large bike size really stands out due to your low seat position. But it’s more important that it’s getting you into riding.

Your high handlebar position rotated back also stands out. As you get more fit and more into cycling, you may want to lower the bars and rotate them forward for better efficiency. Or you may not, depending on your goals.

I finally gave up and have a high handlebar position rotated back, kinda like yours because I’m getting old, my body hurts and comfort is now more important to me than going fast.

If your freewheel is a Regina brand, I actually have a freewheel remover that should fit. For next time you remove it.

oh, just occurred to me, you may never be able to get to 90 rpm even if that turns out to be your optimal cadence. B ecause you’re not using clipless pedals. One thing at a time though . Keep on biking.

TheRealBicycleBuck > VincentMalamute-Kim
09/12/2020 at 18:13

The fit is different on the the old horizontal top tube frames. It wasn’t until the mountain bike came along that sloping top tubes and lots of seat post came into fashion. He has a short torso and arms in comparison to his legs , so his reach isn’t long.

If this were 1985, I’d fit him on a slightly smaller frame, but we’d have three or four to choose from and go from there . These days, he’d only have one or two frame sizes to choose from and he’d have to make big adjustments with the stem and seat post.

TheRealBicycleBuck > Akio Ohtori - RIP Oppo
09/12/2020 at 18:14

Great job! And good pick with the Cateye. My astrale is at least 15 years old, probably more.

Akio Ohtori - RIP Oppo > VincentMalamute-Kim
09/12/2020 at 18:17

But it’s more important that it’s getting you into riding

Thanks! I think a lot of bike people miss that perspective and can only see the sub-optimal stuff I do (and there is a lot of it haha)

Unfortunately the higher handlebar position is an effect of the new stem. Believe it or not that is the lowest position ! Not ideal, but it is comfotable so heh. The bars are meant to be level and apparently I just missed the mark. Still... they were remarkably comfortable in that position so I may leave them...

comfort is now more important to me than going fast

Comfort and exercise are my only two goals for these builds, so yeah not looking to get fast. Just included the speed specs as a way of comparing the two bikes.

Akio Ohtori - RIP Oppo > TheRealBicycleBuck
09/12/2020 at 18:20

Nice! Yeah it is what came with the bike. I just bought a new wiring harness as the one that was on it didn’t have much insulation left. I am pleased with it overall. The other bikes have the Velo (because it is cheap!) and I like those too.

VincentMalamute-Kim > TheRealBicycleBuck
09/12/2020 at 18:32

I know you know a lot more about bikes than I do but I’m actually very old school, having ridden a lot in the 70's and 80's. I’m only now getting used to these new fangled sloping top tubes.

That amount of exposed seat post is still too little. I had a similar fit and look to him on my first nice bike, a Raleigh Grand Sport. Next bike was a Raleigh Competition GS which I was riding until this year and I finally got a modern bike for comfort and hills.

But more important is that he’s out riding. I’m rather surprised he says that stem is as low as it can go given that I assume it’s a quill stem.

VincentMalamute-Kim > Akio Ohtori - RIP Oppo
09/12/2020 at 18:33

Yup. You’re doing great. I’m nitpicking.

Another technical nitpick - I’m surpr ised the stem is as low as it can go. Is that not an old school quill stem? Again - nitpick, just curious from a technical standpoint.

TheRealBicycleBuck > VincentMalamute-Kim
09/12/2020 at 20:09

“ That amount of exposed seat post is still too little.”

What on earth makes you say that? As long as the saddle height to pedal relationship is right for his inseam, he has a couple of inches of stand over height, and there isn’t a mile of seatpost sticking out of the frame, what difference do you think it makes?

It c ould be a problem if there were too much seatpost sticking out of the frame. O ld-school seatposts and frames weren’t designed to have a lot of seatpost revealed. They had a tendency to snap off.

VincentMalamute-Kim > TheRealBicycleBuck
09/12/2020 at 22:01

I agree with you; there’s no practical difference. It’s aesthetic - to my old school eyes, it doesn’t “look right”. That’s all.

As far as designed for not much seatpost exposure, we may not have our definitions straight. When I say “more seatpost exposed”, I am not thinking of the extreme amounts of seatpost exposed with the current sloping top tubes. Just a little more than is visible on his bike. My Raleigh for example. This is what “looks right” to me. That’s all.

Kinja'd!!!

My seatpost is an aero Dura-Ace and if it’s inserted any deepe r than that, the aero section is inside the seat tube and dirt and water would collect.